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Dev And Print
D.Leister/G.Pope
Dev and Print
A few basic methods here.

As with any exposure method, you will have to initially do test strips to get the best overall basic exposure time depending on your light source. Exposures are not usually more than a couple of seconds as a rule.

Film under glass. Contact printing using a piece of glass to keep negative and stock together is a good way to print up short lengths of film that can be joined together later. Sections of film are aligned with the print stock underneath and the negative above, and both are pressed together under the glass emulsion to emulsion, and exposed a section at a time, to light. This can be done underneath an enlarger as the area of light can be directed onto the film, or a local spot lamp or a hand held torch passed over the film would also expose to effect.

Double loaded camera. The camera itself can be loaded with neg. and print in the dark room and then run with out a lens allowing light to expose the stock. Longer sections can be done this way but the camera has a tendency to jam with the double thickness of film, so a hand crank assist is useful. Again, do exposure tests before attempting a mega length.

Steenbeck printing. A Steenbeck (a film-viewing table) can be adapted for printing film. Negative and print stock are double loaded over the picture area while the light from the prism has been reduced with neutral density filters and a cardboard slit. Plenty of gaffer tape is also needed to make the Steenbeck light tight (the screen is also blanked out) and the 'printing' area needs to be masked as well. We used a bit of my security blanket) With a bit of trial and error results can be very good and consistent.

Other methods. In fact, anything that transports film with a light source could be adapted. Picture synchs and projectors can all be used as make shift printers.

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